Playing Good Golf

scotty cameron golf bags

First of all, I understand why you would want to play “Tiger-like” equipment. He’s a great player and of course, the equipment he brings to the course is great… for him. You need to ask yourself… “Is it more important to LOOK like I’m carrying around a bag of Tiger’s clubs, OR to PLAY the game in a way that resembles Tiger.” In other words, would you rather shoot 85 playing a variety of Nike equipment that might not fit you, or would you rather shoot 78 playing something else?

I’ve got nothing against Nike clubs, or blades, or Scotty putters. I used to play a Scotty Studio Prototype 6, and I currently play TaylorMade blades and a Nike driver. I’ve selected the equipment I play based on feel and performance, NOT on looks. I play in 15+ amateur tournaments per year, and I need to be able to depend on my equipment. Here are a few thoughts that might help you:

1. Driver
What process have you gone through to select this Nike driver? Have you hit it on several different occasions with a launch monitor? With a clubhead speed in the mid 90s (I’ll infer a ball speed only around 130ish), you probably don’t need to worry about spin, but launch angle will have a huge impact on your overall distance. I will guarantee you that comparing the latest drivers from different manufacturers will really open your eyes. You WILL hit other drivers longer and straighter. The Ping G10, the TM Burner, the new Nike clubs, the Callaway FT-5… there are so many options. I’d bet one of the newer heads + lighter shaft will give you more accuracy and distance. Isn’t that what you want?

2. Irons
If you could see Tiger’s blades up close, you’d notice a small spot in the middle of the face where the metal is wearing down slightly. For him, it is only about the size of a penny. What do your irons look like? I’m a 6 handicap, and I can tell you that the wear spots on my irons are much bigger, around the size of a quarter. If your irons don’t look like this, you should NOT be playing blades. Doesn’t mean you couldn’t in the future, but playing a more forgiving iron NOW means that as your swing is improving (with age and practice), you will enjoying the benefits of a more forgiving head. There are many tour pros that play forgiving irons. They don’t need much forgiveness from the head, but every little bit helps now and then.
Here is another question: When you are 150 yds out, in the fairway, and the pin is cut back left… what do YOU do? Aim for the middle of the green and play for the back edge yardage? Aim right at the pin? Or do you play towards the middle of the green, play to the middle yardage, and hit a slightly lower draw back to the hole, and assume the low draw will fly farther? I’m gonna guess that at your handicap (10-12), you are probably happy with the middle of the green. A more forgiving iron will help this. A blade is designed to allow you to “work” the ball a little easier. Analyze your last few rounds, and be honest with yourself. Are you able to execute draws/fades with a variety of clubs, in order to hit fairways or knock it close? No offense, but I’m going to assume not. Doesn’t mean you won’t be in a couple years.

3. Shafts
The DG S300 shafts in the irons are probably fine for you. But you’ve listed some pretty heavy/stiff shafts in your woods. I’m 6′ tall, weigh 175 lbs, swing a driver at about 108 mph, and typically carry the ball 260ish with my driver. I can tell you with certainty that my distance and accuracy would suffer if I played a shaft over 70 grams in my driver. And your fairway woods…. 90 gram shafts? Have you hit these clubs? I REALLY don’t think you would like them, and more importantly, I doubt you’d shoot lower scores.

4. Putter
Scotty, Scotty, Scotty… people are obsessed with Scotty. They’re expensive and they perform great for the best players in the world. But there is no magic in them, it is still a big piece of steel alloy. Again, the same argument applies… IF you want to shoot lower scores, you’ll do what pros and good amateurs do, GET FIT for a putter. Find out what the best specs are for YOU. Might be 32″, might be 35″. Might be 2 degrees of loft, might be 5. Might be 68 degrees lie angle, might be 72. Might be D-3 swingweight, might be C-7. Again, do you want to get the ball in the hole, or do you want to look like the guy who stole Tiger’s clubs and is struggling to break 90 with them? Your decision.

5. Hybrids
Just because Tiger doesn’t play any hybrids, doesn’t mean you should ignore them too. Do you want to save a couple shots per round? Ditch the 3 and 4 irons for a few rounds, try a couple of hybrids. The next time you hit a green from 200 yds out with a high, soaring draw from your 3-hybrid.. you’ll be glad you did. I carry two hybrids, and no 3-wood. That is what works for me right now. I play with guys all the time who are scratch players, and ALL of them carry hybrids. They are easy to hit, and save strokes.

6. Custom fitting
Whatever clubs you do end up getting, make you you go through a fitting process with a certified club fitter. My irons are D-5 swingweight (heavy), 1/4″ over standard length, bent 2 degrees upright and 1 degree weak. Those specs work for me, but they won’t for you. Find out what your proper numbers are, and make sure your clubs fit you. If you are around a 10-handicap, you should NOT be playing irons you just bought off the rack.

Bottom line is, you probably want to shoot better scores. Playing the equipment you’ve listed, without properly testing it, comparing it with other equipment, and being properly fit… is NOT the way to shoot lower scores. Do you want to score better, or do you want to look like you stole Tiger’s clubs and can’t break 90 with them? Think it over.

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